Palaces

Changgyeonggung Palace

Changgyeonggung Palace in Seoul was built on the site of another palace in 1483 when King Seongjong decided to extend the site to house other family members. Originally, it was part of Changdeokgung Palace and was known as Donggwol. Its history follows closely with that of other palaces in Seoul. It was destroyed with the onset of the Imjin War and rebuilt a few decades later, only to have many buildings destroyed in an 1830 fire and then renovated a few years later. During Japanese colonial rule the palace became a park and it wasn’t until 1983 that Changgyeonggung was renamed as a palace and a project to restore it began.  Changgyeonggung Palace has many different types of buildings - two halls, a beautiful open building where the king met his subjects and had competitions, bedchambers, spaces for the inner court and living spaces. There is also a greenhouse which is noteworthy because it is of a western style and was in fact the first western style greenhouse in Korea. Viewing it immediately conjures images of the Crystal Palace Building at the Great Exhibition of 1851.

The greenhouse was built in 1909, the same year in which a zoo and botanical garden were established and 2 years before the status of the palace was changed to that of a park. There is also a beautiful two section pond that originally dated to the Joseon Dynasty but was enlarged when the palace was made into a park. You can also see the remains of Gwancheondae, which was an observatory, a wind streamer pedestal, a hemispherical sundial, King Seongjong's placenta chamber and placenta burial marker and a seven storey stone pagoda amongst other things. Changgyeonggung Palace is a great place to spend time if you want to enjoy a relaxing walk, and there are plenty of places to take a break or even have a picnic if you have the time. If you are visiting Changgyeonggung Palace, then it is also worth visiting Changdeokgung Palace and Jongmyo Shrine on the same day as they are within easy walking distance of each other. All three can be accessed using the Royal Palace Pass, which gives access to a number of different attractions at a discounted price and is valid for up to three months.

Deoksugung Palace

Deoksugung is one of the most intriguing of the Seoul palaces because its mixed architectural styles allude to a complicated history. It was initially built as the residence of a Joseon royal family member and then in 1593 it became a temporary palace when other royal residences were burned down during the Imjin War. It wasn’t until 1611 that the site became a palace, when King Gwanghaegun renamed it Gyeonggungung Palace. In the years that followed its purpose shifted between these two types of residence and in 1907 it was officially recognised as a palace when its name was changed to Deoksugung Palace. At the time of the Korean Empire, western style buildings were added, and you can still see that combination of architectural styles today. Many of the original palace buildings were either destroyed in a 1904 fire or during the Japanese colonial period but from 2007, as with the other Seoul palaces, Deoksugung has been subject to restoration. Today the palace offers a unique visitor experience due to the bringing together of eastern and western architectural styles in one place.

The  palace is made up of nine different areas, with all of the western style architecture clustered together. Seokjojeon Hall, with its western style architecture and large fountain, was the residence of the royal family at the time of the Korean Empire, and today it houses the Korean Empire History Museum which is well worth a visit, even if only to see its stunning interior. The museum also offers a variety of experiences including classical music performances and daily guided tours. In terms of other palace buildings, Jeonggwangheon Pavilion in particularly noteworthy because even within this single building there is a blending of eastern and western architectural attributes. Overall, due to the different architectural styles representing its use over different time periods and because it covers a relatively small area, the Deoksugung Palace visitor experience is very different to the other Seoul palaces making it an interesting and worthwhile stop off point. If you are visiting the other Seoul palaces or Jongmyo Shrine do consider purchasing a Royal Palace Pass, which gives reduced entry to multiple set venues and is valid for up to three months.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Gyeongbokgung Palace is undoubtedly the best known of all of the Seoul palaces. The palace is in a prime tourist location with many different cultural heritage and other attractions within easy walking distance. It is probably best known for the iconic images of Gwanghwamun Gate, which is the main gate of the palace, and for its setting in front of Mount Bugaksan. Its popularity is reflected in its visitor numbers, which according to Statista, numbered nearly 6.5 million in 2024. Gyeongbokgung Palace dates to 1395 and was the main palace during the Joseon Dynasty, but it has been at the centre of significant events since that time. It was first destroyed at the end of the 16th century and not restored until the last half of the 19th century when additions to the palace were also made. It was then destroyed in 1910 with the onset of Japanese colonial rule and a huge building was erected on the site for the Governer-General of Joseon. It was not until the 1990s that restoration began and it continues up to the present day, with the Yeonghundang area of the palace being part of a current restoration project.

It is very easy to spend a whole day at Gyeongbokgung Palace as there are so many things to see and do. The entry ticket queues can be quite long, especially during holidays or at weekends, so be prepared for a wait. If you plan to visit any combination of Changdeokgung Palace, Changgyeonggung Palace, Deoksugung Palace, Gyeongbokgung Palace or Jongmyo Shrine it is worth purchasing a Royal Palace Pass, which works out much cheaper than paying individually and is valid for up to three months. Once you get inside the palace you will find people of all nationalities walking around and getting their photographs taken wearing rented hanboks, traditional Korean clothing. There are different options for when you are ready to explore. You can pick up a map and walk around yourself, go on a free guided tour or if you prefer to learn and go at your own pace, you can hire an audio guide. There are also regular re-enactments, such as the daily Changing of the Royal Guards Ceremony. The National Palace Museum of Korea is in the palace grounds, whilst the National Folk Museum of Korea can be accessed directly from the site.

Hwaseong Haenggung

Hwaseong Haenggung in Suwon is just a short walk from the eastern section of Hwaseong Fortress. Like other palaces, most of Hwaseong Haenggung was destroyed during the Japanese colonial period and what we see now was reconstructed during the 1990s and early 2000s. The geography of the area today does not make it obvious, but Hwaseong Haenggung is actually inside Hwaseong Fortress. Hwaseong Haenggung is the largest of all the temporary palaces. There is a surviving Uigwe, a book of Joseon Dynasty royal protocols, that provides much detail relating to the construction of the palace and also the architectural practices of the time. There were different types of temporary palace. They may have been used by the king in times of war, or when there was a long journey to be made or tombs to be visited. Hwaseong Haenggung was used by King Jeongjo when visiting his father’s tomb which was nearby. It is also known to have been used for other important events. Not all buildings from the original palace were reconstructed, but several different types of building can be viewed alongside examples of what some of the living quarters would have looked like during the Joseon Dynasty.