Hwaseong Fortress

Hwaseong Fortress is Suwon is one of 16 properties in South Korea inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. My visit there represented the first stage of a journey that will take me to all 16 of South Korea’s World Heritage Sites over the coming months.

Suwon was a regional government centre during the Joseon period (1392-1910), and Hwaseong Fortress was built to protect the city. The fortress was constructed between 1794 and 1796, during the reign of King Jeongjo, and although much of Hwaseong is authentic, some areas were destroyed during the Korean War (1950-1953) and have since been restored using knowledge obtained from the Hwaseong seongyeok uigwe, a detailed construction report for the fortress dating to 1801 (UNESCO).

There are many different areas to the fortress, and you can take a stroll along the walls, or hop on the site’s Tourist Trolley. If you like to take your time and explore, then walking is the best choice. There are many buildings and scenic spots along the walls and if you walk around the city, you will see other Hwaseong remains, such as the water gate over Suwoncheon Stream or the southern Paldalmun Gate, which lies at the centre of a very busy road.

There is an information office on the site and staff there were very helpful in explaining the best walking route. You can also visit Hwaseong Haenggung, a temporary palace dating to the same period, which is a 10-minute walk from Suwoncheon Stream. There are many surviving remnants of the fortress, some of which are visibly connected, but others are more distant and isolated, so picking up a map is essential if you want to visit the different areas.

Hwaseong Fortress is well worth a visit, and in the spring and summer it is particularly beautiful because of its surroundings. Whatever the season, do check the weather and be prepared, as some parts of the site can get very wet and muddy during a downpour.

As well as its obvious historical significance, Hwaseong Fortress is a particularly interesting site as it is not in a single, easily defined location. The remains of the fortress are scattered over different areas within a dynamic urban environment, highlighting the complexities of dealing with not only a cultural heritage site, but also a UNESCO inscribed site which brings with it additional challenges and responsibilities.